Stereo-Microscope System w/optics and illumination (similar to Wild M5a)

Quantity Pricing
$2,589.19 - Regular price.
$2,427.03 - 2 or more.
$2,264.86 - 3 or more.

Base and Illumination

Fiber-Optic Illuminator

First Free Accessory

Second Free Accessory

Third Free Accessory

Replacement Bulbs

Camera Mounts

Tritech Research is pleased to offer a fantastic, complete dissecting stereo-microscope system for thousands of dollars less than any competing system.

You are probably used to seeing stereo-microscopes priced in the $3000-$7000 range. Remarkably, we are offering a system with high-quality optics, equal to the best microscopes, at an unequaled low price! This model is an update to the Wild-M5a "clones" that we have been selling for years. It has the same optics with a more modern look and a more ergonomic base. The expert optics and mechanics of our system will let you see all the fine details of your specimens with the utmost clarity.

Each system includes all of the following:
  • 1 Stereo-microscope body
  • 1 Integrated power supply and lighting system to control brightness of both trans and incidental illuminators
  • Trans (through), incident or simultaneous illumination
  • 1 frosted glass and 1 black & white plate for the base

Plus, choose any three of the following optical accessories absolutely FREE:
  • 10x (3x-100x)   Eyepieces
  • 15x (4.5x-150x)   Eyepieces
  • 20x (6x-200x)   Eyepieces
  • Reticle / Micrometer Eyepieces
  • 0.5x (3x-50x)   Objective
  • 1.5x (9x-150x)  Objective
  • 2.0x (12x-200x)  Objective

The stereomicroscope is available with fiber-optic illumination upgrade options. Fiber-optics can deliver very bright white sustained illumination with much less heat to your sample than that imparted by standard illumination. One fiber-optic upgrade includes a special base with an adjustable frosted mirror for greater control of transillumination, a bendable fiber-optic light pipe, and a super-bright remote light source. Click here to see it. The other fiber-optic upgrade includes a choice of flat or standard bases, a bifurcated (double) gooseneck fiber-optic light pipe, and the super-bright remote light source. Click here to see the bifurcated light pipe.

The stereomicroscope is also available with a mirror transillumination base upgrade which features a frosted mirror on one side and a shiny mirror on the other. The base can be used as is with the fiber-optic illumination upgrade or as a part of the mirror transillumination base with LED transilluminator upgrade. This upgrade uses our own built-in LED illuminator that costs less than a fiber-optic illuminator, can get just as bright, is the same white color at all brightnesses, and has a 40,000 hour bulb life vs. about 1,000 hours for the halogen fiber optic units.

At our incredible price, order three for the price of one of our competitors' scopes. If you are not fully satisfied, we have a 30-day money back guarantee (MBG only applies to one scope, so if you are not sure, order one scope to prove it works for your application, and we will still honor all quantity discounts when you order more within 30 days). One full year replacement warranty for manufacturing defects.

This system meets all of your dissecting microscope needs. The magnification changer ring allows you to switch between 6x, 12x, 25x, and 50x magnification of the eyepiece/objective combination with the turn of your fingers. The lenses are ground and mounted so precisely that it is seldom necessary to re-focus when switching from one magnification to another. Illumination from above is ideal for microsurgery, dissection, insect (Drosophila) and plant (Arabidopsis) genetics, while illumination from below is ideal for Nematode (C. elegans) and fungal (Saccharomyces, Neurospora, etc.) genetics and micromanipulation.


Q: What is the difference between the Trinocular C and T mounts?
A: The C-mount is a standard threaded mount for microscope cameras that do not have their own lenses. The image is projected directly on the camera's sensor chip. The idea is to match the de-magnification so that the image just covers the chip. For example, a 0.35x C-mount adapter is good for a camera with a chip size of 0.25-0.50 inch diameter, and a 1x C-mount adapter is good for a camera with a chip size of 1 inch diameter. The T-mount is for a regular SLR camera with a removable lens (such as the ones photographers use) and requires that you purchase your own brand-specific T-thread adapter for the camera.

Q: How does the light source get divided between the binocular eyepieces and the camera with the trinocular adapters?
A: The trinocular adapter works by taking all of the light that normally goes to the left eyepiece and reflecting it up into the C-mount (or T-mount adapter/camera. It has two controls: one that redirects the left optical path and one that is a diaphragm that allows the user to reduce the amount of light going to the camera and eyepieces (which also slightly increases the sharpness).

Q: Which type of eye piece and objective combination is recommended for C. elegans versus other types of research?
A: For C. elegans work, we recommend the 10x eyepiece as standard with the 1.5x objective, as it increases the magnification range of the scope from 6-50x up to 9-75x and it reduces the depth of field so that worms are in focus while debris is not. However, the 0.5x objective is good for behavioral studies where you need to image the entire plate in one field of view at 3x. It depends on your application which optics are most useful. You can also get one of each if needed.
We recommend either the 15x or 20x eyepieces along with the 1.5x objective for research work with cells and small structures, such as those in eggs / embryos.

Q: The microscope will not turn on. Is the issue with the microscope bulb and will a replacement bulb solve the problem?
A: If you have the halogen bulb base, maybe. You can order replacement bulbs from us. SMT1-B2 is the bulb for the current version, and SMT1-B is the bulb for some scopes that we sold back in the 20th century. But, before ordering bulbs, please do the troubleshooting suggested below.

If you have the LED base, the problem is probably not the LED. Please double-check that:
1) The power supply is plugged in to a good outlet. (you will notice it has a little green LED on it).
2) Please double-check that the main power switch (on the left side, as you are sitting in front of the microscope, reaching back) and the transilluminator power switch, on the right side, are both in the on (1) positions. (There are 3 total switches on the back).
3) Make sure that the brightness control, (the big wheel on the right side of the base) is not set to the lowest position, where the light is off).

Q: My SMT1 scope has trouble staying in focus - the scope head slides down by itself. How can I adjust the focus knob's tension so that the scope stays in place?
A: Along with the microscopes, you probably received a small, shiny, silver half-C-shaped wrench (see photo, below). The purpose of this tool is to adjust the tension of the focus knobs. You will notice silver rings with holes in them just proximal to each focus knob. The C-shaped wrench has a pin on the inside of the C that sticks into one of the holes, and makes it easy to rotate the silver ring. When facing the knob, clockwise rotation increases the tension (which is what you need) and counterclockwise will loosen it. It is best to tighten both sides to a modest degree rather than to do all the tightening on one side. The "correct" amount of tension is when it is still relatively easy to turn the knobs, but that the microscope will not slide down in its rack under its own weight, or even if you add a little weight by pushing down on it with your finger. The C-wrench looks like this:
photo of c-wrench

Q: What is the purpose of a black metal ring that may have come with my scope if I got the ergo base with LED illumination? Where does it go on the SMT1 scope?
A: It can go into a recess under the frosted glass plate to make a nice circle where the illumination is even. However, all it does is block the light that is not in the center... We suggest to leave it out and have a larger illuminated area.

Q: How would we change the LED transilluminator if it ever burns out?
A: The LED should last between 10x and 100x as long as the halogen bulb version. If it ever burns out, we'll fix or replace it for a reasonable charge. The LED is mounted on a black aluminum heat sinking bracket, and that assembly could be replaced in your lab without having to send the scope or base back to us.

Q: We are having trouble getting a great view of a worm plate with your special triangular high-resolution transillumination base. If we flip the mirror to the frosted side it isnít bright enough. But if we use the shiny mirror side there is a bright light that is difficult to work with.
A: The best image is definitely with the clear glass plate and the frosted mirror. Once you get it working, you will notice that it's superior to bases that use a frosted glass plate. There should be a position and angle of the mirror (frosted side) that gives bright enough illumination, although you may have to turn up the power nearly all the way. Be sure that the LED (under a little anti-glare shield) shines on the mirror, unobstructed, and is so that it is just behind the field of view. Then you should get a great, bright high-resolution view!

Q: What is the best way to clean the eyepieces?
A: We would recommend cleaning the eyepieces with a mild degreasing detergent, like dilute dish washing liquid or SDS, then removing the residue with distilled water.

Q: How can I realign the left and right oculars?
A: Slide the microscope body onto the pole on the base and tighten its set screw to hold the microscope head in place on the base. Turn the eyepiece head 180 degrees by loosening the small set screw on the main body and turning the head around so that the eyepiece tubes face toward you and away from the pole; then re-tighten the set screw. If the eyepiece head is even one degree from either the 0 degree or the 180 degree position, the result will be that the images in the two eyepieces will not line up. If you notice this symptom, please check the eyepiece head alignment. Loosen the eyepiece head, via it's set screw, turn it a few degrees clockwise, and then turn it back, counter-clockwise until you feel it hit the hard stop. This should be the correctly aligned position, and you can then re-tighten the set screw. When you look through the eyepieces, closing one eye, or the other, the two images that you see should be on about the same line, vertically. They should be separated a bit to the left and right. If they do not line up vertically, rotate the eyepiece head slightly until they do.

† These are our list prices. If you are paying with an Institutional Purchase Order or by check, you qualify for a 7.5% discount. Click here to change your payment method and see the lower prices.